Private label products are becoming more and more common. Often, re-inventing the wheel is pointless, especially when you consider the abundance of standard factory products to choose from in China and other Asian countries. Although a private label product is based, at least according to its original definition, on a set of specifications combined with the buyer’s brand, things are unclear in China regarding the clothing industry.
To avoid quality issues and serious misunderstandings when buying private label clothing from Chinese manufacturers, you must follow a strict procedure, which involves selecting the reference designs and fabrics, sizes, and labeling. In this article, we explain how to manage the product development process for ODM clothing in two phases.
Step One: What do you want from your private label clothing manufacturer?
at. Reference samples
Basically, a private label product is a design model. Therefore, the basis for your product is the factory design that is provided to you by the manufacturer. Private label samples can be selected directly from the list of SKUs in the supplier’s product catalog (e.g., on their Alibaba page, or via the print material). As explained in this article, the reference sample can be customized to different degrees – in terms of design elements, dimensions, materials and components.
To supplement the reference sample, you should try to get the supplier’s design drawing. Although this drawing is not always delivered, it is still an important complement to the sales agreement.
b. Fabric Samples
When buying private label clothing from China, the most important aspect to understand is that clothing manufacturers do not have “fixed specifications.” This means that SKU A can be made up of various fabrics that you have to choose.
Clothing manufacturers source fabrics from subcontractors, rather than making them themselves. Therefore, the selection of the suppliers’ fabrics is a reflection of the offer made by their subcontractors. Although many suppliers do not ship their fabric catalog overseas, you can request material samples. Before placing your order, please give your supplier the following:
- Specification on guidelines (e.g., 100% organic cotton, 200 – 240 grams), or send them a reference fabric
- Price per square meter
- Minimum Order Quantity (MOQ)
If possible, ask the supplier to send as many fabric samples as possible, preferably along with the ODM sample for reference. As mentioned above, you can also send the supplier a reference fabric sample, for which he then provides a counter sample.
c. Size chart
The size chart shows all the manufacturer’s standard measurements and dimensions (if available) for each size. Normally, this chart can be changed, which is sometimes necessary due to differences in sizes in different countries and markets (e.g., American sizes compared to European and Asian sizes).
d. Order Terms
To avoid subsequent unpleasant surprises, you should start negotiating the terms of the order early, preferably before making further investments with the purchase of samples. Here’s what you need to know:
- Minimum Order Quantity (MOQ): MOQ / SKU, MOQ / Fabric, MOQ / Color, MOQ / Size
- Bank Transfer Payment Terms (T/T)
- Letter of Credit (L/C) Payment Terms and Minimum Order Value by Letter of Credit
- ODM samples cost (including the cost of machining, if any)
- ODM Sample Production Time
- Timeline for series production
- Accepted defect rate
Step Two: What You Need to Give Your Supplier to Make ODM Samples
at. Product Specifications
Generally, the specifications regarding ODM clothing are a mix of various reference samples, standard fabrics, Pantone colors, and components. It is essential that absolutely clear and consistent product specifications are given to the supplier. You must include:
- SKU of the reference sample (as instructed by the supplier)
- Fabric (as arranged by the supplier)
- Pantone Colors
- Components (e.g., YKK zipper)
- File with the size chart (modified or as arranged by the supplier)
You may also want to consider returning sample units and material samples to the supplier to reduce the risk of misunderstandings. However, keep at least one of each for future reference.
b. Embroidery and logo files
All files relating to logo, embroidery and washing instructions must be delivered directly to the supplier. You can use the standard dimensions and positioning as you would on the ODM clothing sample, or you can make changes to the design file (which will hopefully be delivered by the supplier). Also, remember that you need to make sure that the washing instructions file may need to include the country of origin (e.g., Made in China), fiber composition (e.g., 98% cotton, 2% spandex), and treatment instructions (e.g., ASTM D5489).
- Embroidery files (.ai or .eps)
- Logo print file (.ai or .eps)
- Embroidery/logo print position (on the clothing project file)
- Washing instructions (.ai or .eps)
- Location of washing instructions (on the clothing project file)
c. Compliance Requirements
It is not the manufacturer’s responsibility to check the regulations in your market. It’s your job. Before entering the development of pre-production samples (preferably even before this) you must communicate what regulations the product must comply with. In the European Union and the United States, there are various regulations on substances, which limit the content of heavy metals and chemicals – for example, formaldehyde, azo dyes and lead. A brief overview follows:
- European Union: REACH
- United States: FHSA (formaldehyde and azo dye restrictions)
- United States: California Proposition 65
- United States: CPSIA (children’s clothing)
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