
Importing Leather Products from China: The Complete Guide
Leather is used to make everything from shoes to wallets, sofas to bags. In this article, we explain what importers of leather products need to know about the different types and qualities of leather, labeling requirements and regulations governing chemicals. In addition, we also explain why you should be wary of the origin of certain types of leather and why you should avoid those materials that contain phthalates and lead
Types and qualities of leather from importing from China
There are four main types of leather to import from China:
- Full-grain leather
- Top grain leather
- Crust
- Correct flower
Most suppliers tend to source domestic cowhide, or calfskin as the best alternative. Some suppliers may also provide you with more unique varieties of leather, such as crocodile skin and other animal skin.
There are also different textures to choose from, as follows:
- Smooth/simple
- Suede
- Crocodile (consistency)
As for the colors, you have the following options:
- Option A: Standard Color
- Option B: Custom Color (Pantone or RAL)
Most suppliers have standard colors, for which the Minimum Order Quantity (MOQ) is relatively low. Of course, you can get leather in a specific Pantone color, but this usually results in an increase in the Minimum Order Quantity.
Don’t rely on the manufacturer’s expertise, when it comes to the quality of the leather
We work a lot with buyers and their manufacturers who, for the most part, are based in Shenzhen and are in the watch industry. Today, most “fashion” watches, at least those in the middle price segment, have leather straps. Watch manufacturers are, essentially, procurers of components and assembly companies. Only a small part of the components is made “in-house”.
In contrast, all components, including leather straps, are made by specialized subcontractors. This is how industrial parks work and this is neither negative nor exclusive to the watch industry.
Where am I going?
It would be reasonable to assume that the supplier has some knowledge about the various qualities of leather. In fact, you might even think that a supplier might give you information about different skin types and their various qualities.
This, however, is not the case.
In reality, many suppliers – in the watch industry, but also manufacturers of bags and suitcases – are often not experts in the various types and qualities of leather.
Suppliers expect the buyer to give them clear instructions, which they will then pass on to the suppliers of the raw materials. Without a clear specification of type and quality, suppliers may use leather that does not match your quality requirements.
Skin selection of products to be imported from China from a catalog
Many manufacturers allow their customers to choose from catalogs containing leather samples to import from China. Usually, each sample has its ID, quality and origin specified. Keep in mind that it may be difficult to verify the real origin of the leather, which I will discuss in more detail shortly. However, if your only alternative is to select leathers from a catalog, you should have a sample with you. This ensures that you have some sort of quality reference for the final production
Leather imported from Italy (and other countries)
Many suppliers tend to make quotes based entirely on the origin of the leather. While it’s not that simple, it’s often similar to the following:
- Italy (High cost)
- Hong Kong (Avg. Cost)
- Mainland China (Lower Cost)
Can you believe that the “Italian skin” actually comes from Italy? Unless they can, at the very least, show you a certificate of origin.
From experience I can tell you that many suppliers are not able to produce such documentation. Even if they do, it is far from a guarantee of the origin of the leather.
Product safety regulations
Leather products are not subject to specific regulations. There are, however, some regulations that encompass consumer goods as a whole. Here’s a big picture:
a. REACH
It limits the presence of substances, such as lead and azo dyes, in all consumer goods sold in the European Union, including leather goods such as wallets, bags and watch straps.
b. California Proposition 65
California Proposition 65 restricts the presence of more than 800 substances in consumer goods, including leather products. As an importer, you should ensure compliance with this regulation either by sending the leather product to a third-party testing company, or by inserting a warning label.
c. Leather for furniture and household products
Usually, leather-covered furniture must comply with the fire safety regulations in force in the reference market. Keep in mind that this may require skin treatment.
d. Children’s leather products
Children’s leather products are subject to EN 71 in the European Union and CPSIA in the United States. Keep in mind that these regulations are not only applicable to toys, or “traditional” children’s products, but also to wallets and bags.
If you plan to sell your products as “child-friendly”, you must ensure compliance with the safety regulations on children’s products in force in Italy.
Case Study: Leather Watch Straps Containing Excessive Amounts of Phthalates and Other Restricted Substances
What is the real risk of importing leather products? Well, higher than I myself thought.
At the end of 2014, a customer (again) of the watch industry presented samples of a batch to a laboratory in Hong Kong that had to carry out tests on the product. To our surprise, the test did not pass the parameters of California Proposition 65. According to the test result, the strap contained excessive amounts of phthalates:
Phthalates are a group of chemicals used to soften and increase the flexibility of plastics and vinyl. Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is made softer and more flexible by the addition of phthalates. These substances are present in hundreds of consumer goods.
[…]
The current levels of seven phthalates, reviewed by the National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences, raise “minimal” concern about the effects in reproduction.
However, the National Toxicology Program concluded that high levels of a phthalate, di-n-butyl phthalate, can negatively affect the reproductive system or human development.
Source: U.S. National Library of Medicine (Link here)
However, the amount of phthalates is limited by California Proposition 65, which means that a product may not be legally imported and sold in the United States. Well, at least not without a warning label like this:
WARNING: Through this product you are exposed to phthalates, a group of chemicals known to the State of California to cause damage to the reproductive system.
Which, surely, will not sell off the shelves of your products.
So how is it possible that a chemical, used to soften plastic, is present in leather straps? For the record, that was not a product made of synthetic leather, but of genuine leather. Most likely, phthalates were present in the coating.
Many leather products are coated with different types of chemicals. In this case, the strap has a shiny surface that is, essentially, a sheet of plastic.
Conclusions
This is only my hypothesis, but it is also the most logical conclusion.
Now, why didn’t the supplier clarify this earlier? Well, as I have already explained in this article, you cannot assume that the supplier is an expert in leather products, until they are the supplier of the raw material themselves.
In this specific case, the supplier had mainly focused on the domestic market. Therefore, he did not know, or at least knew very little, the European and American regulations in force for chemical substances.
This does not only affect the watch industry. In reality, this situation is widespread in all sectors.
Leather does not only contain phthalates. Lead is also present in many leather products
Labeling requirements
In the United States, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) manages the labeling regulations for leather and leatherette products, such as synthetic leather.
For example, the exact type of leather and description must be present in the product and in all commercial documentation.
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